Less than 10 years ago the writing seemed to be on the wall for chickens. They weren’t facing extinction, but the knives were out and they weren’t being used for carving. Celebrity chefs made headlines by accusing poultry producers of pumping birds full of antibiotics, while fears over bird flu saw sandwich shops posting notices assuring diners their chicken fillings were good enough to eat. Stories of chicken breasts from Thailand being augmented with water before getting gas flushed in Holland and lightly dusted with breadcrumbs in Ireland and relabelled as Irish featured on these pages too. Fast-forward a decade and the poultry sector seems to be in a better place, not least because of...
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